Buying a Banarasi saree is never just about the colour or the border. It’s about investing in a piece of heritage, choosing something you want to wear and preserve.
But the minute you start shopping, whether online or in-store, you realise how tricky it is. There are hundreds of lookalikes, each one claiming to be “pure Banarasi.” So how do you know what’s real and what’s just a well-made copy?
If you’re unsure how to tell the difference, this guide simplifies it for you. Here's what to watch out for and what to ask before you spend your money on a Banarasi saree.
Easy ways to identify a pure Banarasi silk saree when buying from a shop
If you're physically at a store and trying to figure out whether the Banarasi you're holding is the real deal, here’s what you should look for:
1. Check the zari work: In authentic Banarasi sarees, zari is either real silver threads dipped in gold or at least tested zari. It feels rich, slightly textured, and not overly shiny like plastic-based threads.
2. Look at the reverse side: A genuine handwoven Banarasi will have no loose threads hanging behind the motifs. The backside will be as neat as the front.
3. Observe the pallu and border: The heavier the pallu and the more intricate the border work, the better the chances it’s a real Banarasi. Machine-made copies often skip the detailing here.
4. Look for signature motifs: Traditional Banarasi sarees typically carry Mughal-inspired motifs based on designs sometimes familiar from cotton sarees, such as floral vines, jhallar borders, bel patterns, or their hallmark small kalga and paisley.
5. Weight of fabric: Authentic silk Banarasi sarees have some weight to them due to the inspiration and silk (although they do not feel heavy or plastic-like, and they will drape and fall naturally).
6. Ask about weaving origin: If the shopkeeper says it’s woven in Varanasi or surrounding areas (like Azamgarh or Bhadohi), it’s a good sign. Powerloom pieces are usually from Surat or other synthetic hubs.
Should I always ask for a certificate when buying a Banarasi saree?
If you're buying a high-value Banarasi saree, especially one claiming to be pure silk and handwoven, yes, it’s a good idea to ask for a certificate.
There’s something called the Silk Mark, issued by the Silk Mark Organisation of India, which certifies pure silk. Similarly, GI (Geographical Indication) tags can be offered on some handwoven Banarasi sarees to confirm that the weaving was done in Banaras and not mass-produced elsewhere.
However, most authentic sarees do not have certificates, especially if you are buying your saree from small handloom clusters or artisan fairs. In this case, have confidence in your research, look at the weave closely, and do not hesitate to ask the seller about their weaving process.
How can I tell whether a website is selling authentic Banarasi sarees?
Online shopping is very convenient, but with handloom, it comes with some risk. Here are some ways to be cautious when you are purchasing a Banarasi saree online:
1. Always read the product description. Specifically, does the site mention the type of silk? Does it mention "hand-woven" or simply say something vague about the saree being "Banarasi-style"?
2. Look for the details of the weaving process. Real Banarsi sarees will indicate where it has been woven, which techniques were used, whether the zari is real or tested, etc.
3. Check for backside photos or close-ups. Some platforms provide detailed images where you can actually observe the texture and threads. If all the photos are highly edited or flat-looking, it’s hard to verify quality.
4. See if the pricing makes sense. A handwoven pure silk Banarasi saree can’t cost ₹2,000. If it’s too cheap to be true, it probably is.
5. Browse customer reviews. Especially look for photos and detailed reviews. If other buyers are satisfied with the drape, feel, and look, it’s a safer bet.
Conclusion
A Banarasi saree is more than a festive garment; it’s woven history. It represents time, patience, and people. If you're buying one, good for you; you should know exactly what you're paying for.
Buying an authentic Banarasi saree is all about asking the right questions and knowing what to check, whether in-store or online. If you find the real thing, it will last you for years. If you don’t, it might look good today, but it won’t hold up over time.
For anyone beginning their journey with Banarasi or looking for handpicked, authentic options with clarity on weave, fabric, and finish, Weavekaari curates sarees that honour the art form and respect the buyer.
